Sunday, March 27, 2005

AAAHHHHssmara! Eritrea

Relief at getting here in one piece and landing safely in Africa after four months on the road has invigorated us both. We are eating well and sleeping comfortably in a former spaghetti millionaire's villa turned pension in the capital.

Telltale signs that you have arrived in Africa include young boys walking their pets in the centre of the town on a chain leash.It just so happens that the pet drinking from a can of soda with its two hands wrapped around the tin is a Columbus monkey.

We wake up in the morning to the sound of song birds and look out of our shuttered windows at the tall palm trees,jacaranda,hibiscus and boungainvillea that surround us.

My view is momentarily interrupted by the sound of a United Nations trucks that parade around the town with tall, flexible aerials and a nonchalance that befits any occupying force.With the presence of so many NGO's, it is hard to ignore their impact upon this tiny newly formed country.

The NGO's fear corruption in local government so they have taken the responsibility for administering the proceeds from Western governments directly to the people who most need it. USAid, VSO,UNMCEE,UNDP,UNHCR,World Food Programme...they are all present but do they really help or are they making the situation a lot worse by their presence and the people's dependence on their donations.

Although the UN occupies three floors of the five star Intercontinental hotel enjoying all the fruits of an expat life, they are in plain sight of the refugee camps only a matter of minutes away on ther main road to the airport.

For the bulk of ther people though,it doesn't seem to have affected cafe society one bit as the era of 'la dolce vita' continues on the main promenade of Harnet Ave.It is lined with palm trees and the tranquil nature of the people here only adds to the feeling of being on the movie set of some bygone era.

People take their evening stroll or 'passiegata' along ther main street and greet friends warmly with handshakes and hugs.Pasticcerias churn our macciatos, cappucinos and espressos at an alarming rate. Eateries compromise more of Italian based dishes such as saltimbocca, antipasta, maccroni and tagliatelle while the local food of tbisi or zigni is much harder to find.

Great opera houses and art deco theaters mark the legacy of the Italian conquest in the 1930's and the pastel coloured buildings with floor to ceiling windows and balconies only add to the effect.

It's incredible to see such a beatiful place and yet, so many wish to leave to begin leave afresh elsewhere......there's more to this story than meets the eye.

1 Comments:

Blogger garat_jax said...

Sounds pretty cool. It's good to hear that you made it safely out of the middle east.

7:54 AM  

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